My second visit, I had decided, was
to be a winter one. Christmas 2010, in fact, just a year and a half after my
first visit. It was in fact to be the longest break in between trips to Iceland
but at the time I wasn’t to know this. I had originally loved the place so much
in the summer that I thought a real test of my adoration would be to go back
when it was cold. The 2010 winter in the UK had already been unseasonably cold
and with temperatures of -10 back home in Belfast just before I left Iceland
would have to be pretty cold to put me off the place. I hadn’t really admitted
it to myself at this point but I was already thinking about moving there
permanently. This was to be a test of how much I loved the place.
One day’s snowfall at Heathrow had
brought the world’s busiest international hub to a complete standstill and my
concern at never making it Reykjavík was huge. Eventually Heathrow crawled back
to life like a stinking drunk coming around just before last orders and on the
23rd I flew south to London before heading on my way back to the far north.
Being forced to wait for four hours
standing in a freezing cold tent outside where the taxis normally drop you off
made me feel sorry for cows. The UK’s biggest and best had received a couple of
inches of snow and hit 3rd world conditions.
I tried pickled herrings and smoked
lamb on the flight to Keflavík, quite a revelation. Best food I’d had flying I
think, their Christmas platter really hit the spot. It was never going to be as
cold as Britain in Iceland and I wasn’t fazed once by the weather there during
my stay. Cold yes, but unreasonably so, no. It snowed rather heavily on
Christmas Day but the rest of the time it was warmer than Belfast which is a
bit of a joke at Northern Ireland’s expense
The hotel I was booked into over
the five nights of my stay was actually closed Christmas Eve and Christmas Day
so I was moved to a five star monster of a hotel just around the corner free of
charge. The Grand Hotel Reykjavík was a complete delight and one of the best
Xmas treats I’ve ever had.
I am frequently reminded in life of
something I once heard a DJ say on air in Sydney. It’s not how you fuck up,
it’s how you recover. The situation at Heathrow and the subsequent shambles in Northern
Ireland over the water supply when I returned would make me think of these
words over and over again.
I found a couple of Arnaldur
Indriðason’s novels that I’d been unable to track down in the UK and discovered
that there’s a bunch of his stuff that hadn’t been translated yet. I got some
cool shirts from Dogma, a cheap jersey from Dressman and spent quite a bit of
time looking for restaurants that were open. This proved to be a bit of work on
the 24th and 25th but also led to me finding some great places to eat. The
variety of food here is brilliant, from Nepalese Curry Houses to Slovakian
Burgers and the lobster tails at Café Paris; anything you might want. The
busiest place in town is still the best hotdog stand in the world where you
could get two dogs with everything for 560 krónur. That’s a great lunch deal.
They reckon that about 30% of the
population has a university degree. (That’s because tertiary education here is
so cheap it may as well be free.) Figures that the rest of the world would
struggle to ever match. Educating your population or giving them the
opportunity to become educated can only ever be a good idea which hopefully
will lead to many more. Universities in the UK can now charge up to £9,000 a
year per student. Funnily enough hardly anyone can afford to go to university.
Those that do wind up with huge student loans. The universities are full of
rich kids from overseas and when British people do get degrees half of them
will want to leave to find a job.
They also say they say that Iceland
has more good looking women per capita than anywhere else in the world. Between
the fact that they’ve had three Miss World winners in the last 27 years and
only have the population of Cardiff and the women that I’ve seen in my two
brief visits I would struggle to argue with that statement. Nor would I want to
try.
Small populations seem to care
about stuff more too. A guy in the shop where I got my jumper asked about the
trapped miners in Greymouth. Not something you’d expect people on the other
side of the planet to know was going on let alone give two hoot about.
He also said that from what he’d
seen in movies that New Zealand looked a bit like Iceland. Like the rest of the
world he had seen The Lord of the Rings movies. An astute observation that I’ve
often contemplated myself but always felt a bit odd talking to people about.
Just in case they thought I was talking rubbish. Anyone who’s been to both
countries though couldn’t help but notice the similarities. There are of course
many differences too. Both countries lie on geographical fault lines. Iceland’s
is much bigger than ours. Both countries have geothermal activity but it presents
itself in slightly different ways.
New Zealand has hot springs,
geysers and bubbling mud. Iceland has the famous Geyser area where the name
came from. The way Iceland harness their huge amount of geothermal power is the
main difference. They have thousands of geothermal bores that keep everything
in the country warm. Greenhouses where they grow all their vegetables. Hot
water pumped into homes and businesses for radiators. A vast array of heated
pools around the country. They even keep the footpaths in the middle of
Reykjavík free of snow and ice with pipes of hot water under the pavements.
The black sands of the southern
shores of Iceland could almost be New Zealand along with the organ pipe rock
formations. The mountains and glaciers in Iceland have their counterparts in
the South Island albeit on a much reduced scale. A lot of the dramatic scenery
from the Lord of the Rings movies could have been shot on the other side of the
world too.
My two nights at the biggest hotel
in the whole country were very nice as was walking home in the snow on
Christmas Day. My favourite memory of this stay though was on the evening of
the 23rd on Laugavegur the main shopping street. Groups of people singing
carols on the street which was car free for the night and others setting up
stalls to stand there in the cold and give away free hot chocolate to anyone
passing by.
The best of the lot though was a
motorcycle gang; the Sober Riders MC, with their soup kitchen giving away soup
to anyone at all. Some wanted it to keep warm that night, some probably really
needed it this year more than most. That’s what Christmas in Reykjavík looked
like to me. People looking out for each other, you don’t get that in too many
places anymore. “Have a jolly, holly Christmas”.
Tak! Enjoyed that. M
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome. Thanks for the feedback, M. Really glad you enjoyed it. There will be more to come...
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